Rick Owens debuted his menswear collection “LUXOR” for the Fall/Winter 2023 season with the slogan “REDUCED ARCHITECTURAL SHAPES WITH A WHIFF OF SLEAZY SEVENTIES PSEUDO-MYSTICISM” at the forefront of it all, which is in keeping with the theme of reduction that has been prevalent throughout this season.
There were many Owensisms present, such as a room filled with fog, metal benches, an elevated brutalist runway, opening with Tyrone Dylan Susman, and guests included Michèle Lamy, Usher, David Beckham, and J Balvin. The celebrated fashion designer was about to have another momentous occasion, and it was going to be “LUXOR.”
Shoulders were chiseled, waists were cinched, and chests were exposed, and the whole thing displayed Owens’ menacing mastery. For Fall/Winter 23 Collection, attention to detail was more important than ever. One example is a pair of gloves from shiny and shaved hair on calfskin leather. These gloves are produced by hand in a historic Italian factory through a 25-step procedure.
In a similar vein, the use of soft and waxy pirarucu fish skins, which are tanned in Brazil and finished in Italy, are responsibly sourced, and benefit indigenous communities in Brazil, were meticulously selected for quality before being turned into an intricate, puffy, pleated cape that draped from the model’s neck while sitting atop an A-line skirt and a new iteration of heeled boots. In addition, the use of soft and waxy piraruc
In this investigation, no rock was turned over unturned. Shaggy jackets were made from only the highest-quality cowhides, and most featured signature details from the designers who created them, such as buckles and webbing on the back, pointed shoulders, and elongations.
Even when Owens ruins something, like the barely-there thread jeans, 18-ounce Japanese Selvidge denim is still used to produce the item. This quality can be seen in the photographs, but it is amplified in the actual world when you attend one of Owens’ shows. As models walked across a metal grid runway, we noticed that he had redesigned his Kiss Boot with knee- and thigh-high silhouettes, soles that appeared to be chunkier, and the addition of a translucent heel to a new boot.
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These brand-new boots were orthopedic, and they included straps that crisscrossed the foot and went all the way up the toes. The thick and padded leather shafts served as a counterpoint to the geometrically severe shapes and structures prevalent in several of the designs for this season.
As the designer described it, there is a bitterness to creating a collection during a war: “A desire to provide our somber best in an industry that must remain stalwart, but with a sense of frustration that nothing is enough.” Perhaps it was a commentary on life as it is today.
Aside from this, we came across homages to Owens’ earlier works of art. For instance, the bulbous and avant-garde designs that his wife and muse, Michelè Lamy, is known for wearing made their debut on the FW23 catwalk in the form of leather balls and curvy shapes, warping and wrapping around the body.
The same was done in nylon, and the coats we typically see Owens wearing were exaggerated beyond anything that had come before. The shoulders of the new coats, which were now made of suedes and shearling, were extended, and the backs of the coats measured almost one meter in width.
Owens once again demonstrated that he is the name that cannot be missed on the PFW calendar with his collection of crystal and metal cuff bangles, sunglasses, footwear, and all of the items above. Look at the group up top, and if you want to see more stuff from Hypebeast, check out the page we’ve created specifically for Paris Fashion Week FW23.
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